Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Watch Watch Releases

For 2014, Ulysse Nardin Cheapest Watch Replica continues to move “in-house” by replacing many of its existing watch collections with new ones that include in-house made movements. With the “Perpetual Manufacture” the brand’s perpetual calendar movement gets a full in-house treatment. Previously it was a sort of half and half movement combining an in-house module with something like a base Swiss ETA automatic. To debut the fully in-house made perpetual calendar movement Ulysse Nardin will release the first models as a limited edition set.

Ulysse Nardin has been making in-house movements for quite a while, but most of them have been in their most high-end watches. This includes their various minute repeaters, tourbillons, and range of exotic high-complication timepieces. Only with the caliber UN-118 (hands-on here) finally released in 2012 did Ulysse Nardin Watches Ladies Replica begin to produce in-house made movements for their larger collection of watches. The UN-118 has been complimented but a range of other calibers and for 2014 among the various new movements is the caliber UN-32 automatic perpetual calendar and it exists among a rare breed of such to boot. It is also COSC Chronometer certified.

Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Watch Watch Releases

The definition of a perpetual calendar is that it takes into consideration leap years, which means that it will not need to be adjusted until the year 2100. Perpetual calendars also vary in their design and how they indication information. Though most clearly indicate the date, month, and leap year. Many also indicate the phase of the moon, but not this one. However, the UN-32 does have a special trick up its sleeve – it is able to adjust the calendar functions both forward and backwards. Amazingly less than half a dozen perpetual calendar watches made today are able to do that.

That means that you can adjust the perpetual calendar both forward and backwards in time. Attempt this on most perpetual calendar watches and they will either not be able to do it, or will break in the process. The calendar display offers convenient to read windows for the big date, day of the week, month and a year indicator at the bottom of the dial. The latter is the replacement for what would otherwise be the leap year indicator. The system knows which years have longer February months and take those into consideration. So what looks like just another Ulysse Nardin Watches Website Replica perpetual calendar dial is really something a bit different. The dial also includes a GMT hand with dedicated pushers on the left and right of the case to move the local time either forward or backwards – which makes the Perpetual Manufacture a pretty solid traveler’s watch.

Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Watch Watch Releases

The initial models in the limited edition set will be quite high-end offered only in 18k red gold or platinum cases. The polished cases will be 43mm wide and in a typical Ulysse Nardin Watch 356-66 Replica design. I like how the dials come together in terms of design and legibility. The dial textures are nice as well. What I am not convinced about right now are the hands. They aren’t bad, but they really don’t look like what we normally see from the brand. They sort of feel a bit thin for the dial. They actually aren’t really too short, but perhaps the narrow style mixed with them being skeletonized makes them feel a bit anemic in an otherwise bold aesthetic presentation. Perhaps my assertion is wrong and when I see the Perpetual Manufacture watches hands-on I will be able to come up with a better determination.

Another new feature on the dial is the “∞” (infinity) character that Ulysse Nardin places over the “Perpetual” label. Perhaps we will see this on all perpetual calendar watches from the brand moving forward. Overall the piece is very interesting and I look forward to checking it out more soon. Ulysse Nardin will produce the Perpetual Manufacture as a limited edition of 250 pieces total. I imagine that is 125 piece in each metal. ulysse-nardin.com

Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Calendar Manufacture Watch Watch Releases

The UN-118 was a significant landmark for Ulysse Nardin as it had been designed in house with a unique material for the escapement – DIAMonSIL. A mix of silicon and man-made diamond, the usage of DIAMonSIL eliminated the need for lubrication of the escapement. In theory, this ought to help keep rate keeping stable for a much longer duration. The logic is that over time, the viscosity of a traditional noodle raises and the total amount of friction with it – with DIAMonSIL that is no longer an issue. The main motivation behind the evolution of the UN-118 was to decrease reliance on ETA ébauches, but the technical chops that Ulysse Nardin made available at this price point were definitely a welcome bonus as well.In addition, the UN-118 features a silicon hairspring and offers 60 hours of power reserve. Given the ‘Chronometer’ in the title, the watch comes with COSC certification and the brand’s own Ulysse Nardin Performance Certificate. We’re told that the movement is decorated and observable via a sapphire crystal case back, but unfortunately, no pictures were supplied, so it’s difficult to comment on what finishing will seem like.As I mentioned earlier, the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur is housed in a 42mm situation which is available in stainless steel or 18k rose gold and, unlike its bigger sibling, has much more traditional lugs and no crown guard. The lugs are short and curve downwards quite significantly, which should help the watch sit comfortably on most wrists. An interesting design feature of the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur is that the bezel’s coin-like border that’s reminiscent of rotating bezels with textures for better grip. Nevertheless that really is a thin, fixed bezel, so the finish is just to add visual interest and is not functional. Given the capacities of modern watchmaking methods, the marine institution of the watch and the existence of a screw-down crown, the watch supplies a disappointing 50m of water resistance. This may seem like a small detail, but I feel like they should’ve offered 100m.

Technical data from Ulysse Nardin

– Ref. 322-10 (red gold), 329-10 (platinum)
– Limitation: 250 pieces
– Movement Caliber UN-32, 34 jewels
– Power Reserve: Approx. 48 hours
– Winding: Self-winding chronometer movement with official rating certificate (C.O.S.C).
– Functions: Perpetual Calendar adjustable over single crown. Second time zone on main dial with a patented quick setting mechanism. Permanent home time indicated by 3rd hand. Big date in double window.
– Case: Available in 18 ct. red gold or platinum
– Dimensions: 43 mm
– Water-resistance: 30m
– Crystal: Anti-reflective sapphire crystal
– Case-back: Sapphire crystal
– Crown: Water-resistant
– Band: Leather strap with folding buckle